6/30/2015

Simplicity 1277

Simplicity 1277: Amazing fit dress with bust darts, contrasting side panels and various cup sizes.


This wine/cream printed cotton-poly immediately caught my eye as I was making my way to the back of 123 Fabrics in Bklyn.  It just appeared to shine brighter than the other printed fabrics standing side by side and trying their darnedest to bid for my attention. The print just dazzled me and knew a cut of it would be coming home with me.  Once home with this cut and a few others, I pondered how could I best show case this fabulous print without it being too much. Over a few days and as I played Russian roulette with my patterns, Simplicity 1277 struck me as the one.


I cut a size 16D for the body & armhole, 14 @ the neckline & shoulders.  I made adjustments to the side seams (3/8"), center back (1/4") omitting the zipper and scooped the front neckline.  However the neckline did not end up as low as I would've liked, because I removed 1/4" from the shoulder seams.... totally forgetting to go back and scooping a tad bit more from the front neckline.


For the side panel/pockets I used a wine stretch woven.  The construction was going smoothly and then, a moment ... make it 20 minutes of befuddlement with the pocket construction.  There is the pocket facing, which the instructions have you attach to the dress, and then there is the side panel with the cut-on pocket in which you are to attach the pocket right sides together to the facing.  Well that was not working, I must have flipped that piece several times, then gave in and found it easier to attached the upper part of the side panel, then attach the pocket to the pocket facing... worked like a charm. I top stitched along the front and back side panels. Despite the lil befuddlement with the pocket construction, the pocket location is perfect, wherein if side seam adjustments are needed they are not in the way.

The dress is more along the style of an A-line silhouette and went back before inserting a full lining and removed from just below the pocket another 3/8" from the side seams.  Thinking I could've removed a tad more.  Also added front & back neck darts to remove the excess.

I fully lined the dress with black tricot, however instead of fiddling with the pattern pieces, once the front and back were completed and before attaching at the side seams.  I traced off a lining from the front and back pieces of the dress and added 3/8" seam allowances.  I will definitely make this dress again, but will go ahead and cut the pattern 14 size and as well as the next smaller size for the neckline & shoulders.

Until then,
Have a Great Week !

6/28/2015

Butterick 5211

Am I the only sucker for an easy and quick pattern?

I have a large collection of those patterns, however, constantly finding that they are not as easy and quick as stated on the pattern envelope.  What the pattern predicts will take an hour, often times takes me a few hours and sometimes a few days.

Butterick 5211: Dress with back neck opening with button/thread loop closure, extended shoulders and topstitching detail is one of them.

this dress took me almost a week, despite that the pattern was already cut since I made this dress back in 2009...... ummm yeah .


Used a pinkish/lavender printed cotton-poly fabric and after basting with the same sizing and no adjustments, immediately realized... this is likely to be a potential wadder.
 But then I paused for the cause and knew it could be saved with some adjustments.  Pulled out my fisheye dart template and plugged in 2 front darts & 2 back darts, which removed some of the excess ease in the torso area.  Scooped out the neckline, omitted the closure detail, reduced the extended sleeve circumference and lastly added front & back neck darts... yes ... this dress has 8 darts.  However, the fit was much better, added pockets from New Look 6351 and fully lined.


However, there remains a few sticky issues, my darts were not deep enough to remove all of the excess from the front neckline, the sleeve edges are akin to lil airplane wings, and due to the fact that I tinkered with the extended sleeve I lowered the armhole ... yeah armpit cleavage.  End result, this dress is wearable, despite the sticky issues.  I will go back and add a center dart to the front neckline which is my most irritating issue and if that goes well... I will be happy.


After this lil fiasco will it deter me from an easy & quick pattern ... likely not ... I am a true sucker for an easy and quick pattern.  I currently have a fast and easy pattern on the cutting table ... so stay tuned.

Until then,
Enjoy the Rest of the Weekend.

6/27/2015

New Look 6341

Misses dress with princess seams and scoop back with sleeve options.


This dress was an eye opener for me.  After being inspired by my sewing sister, I jumped in and decided to give it a try..... 1st dress.  Cut 16, 14 @ neckline & shoulder and 16 armhole.


Immediately worked up a 2nd one in a light weight stretch denim.  I made the same adjustments on the garment that I'd made for the first one, which were removed 3/8" from each side seam and 1/4" from center back seam, 1/4" shoulder seams, scooped 3/8" from front neckline, opted out of the center back zipper which is so not needed.  Lastly used the side seam pocket pattern piece from New Look 6351 and fully line.

Knowing that I wanted to work up another dress in a woven (printed cotton/poly), I kept the pattern intact at a size 16.  Adjustments were 1/4" from the shoulders seams & seams and scooped out 3/8" from the neckline, stitched down the pleats an additional 2", shortened hemline by 2", fused hemline with heat n'bond, fully lined and hand stitched lining at armholes.


Must say this dress is my favorite.. love everything about it.


The weather was expected to feel like a hundred degrees, how wrong can one go with cotton/poly.


In the office where the temps are cooler, I donned a hot pink chadwick blazer that I'd refashioned two years ago.


This pattern is a definite remake... stay tuned...


Until then,
Have a Fabulous Weekend !

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