3/03/2015

OOTD: Then & Now

New Look 6697 pattern remains one of my oldie, but goodie.  I've had the pattern since 2008 and recently pulled it out to make a dress, then realized its been some time since I wore one of the earlier versions.



Initially I was ok with the length, but once I tried it on, felt it could be a tad shorter  and removed 1-1/2".

Now 2015
I like it much better and tickled that the bottom row looks like flames.

Off to pull out the other version and shorten, as we get another round of snow, sleet & freeze.

Until then, 
Have a Great Week.

3/02/2015

Butterick 5958 w/ Mccalls 6654 & Mccalls 6796

Feeling the need for something different in my wardrobe other than my usual suits and being inspired by Etta's fabulous vest suit, I went on a quest for the perfect vest pattern.  Sifted through my pattern stash and came across Butterick 5958: Vest and Jacket: fitted, lined vest or jacket with princess seams side panels and side front zipper.

For Version A, I had the perfect fabric to pair with it, which is a dk. brown, dk. green & burgundy plaid poly suiting fabric, that I'd scored at Virgo fabric last year.  The fabric washed & dried like a dream with no need to iron after machine drying. I tried my darnedest to match up the plaid at every seam, but of course there is one seam where the plaid  is not aligned.

Seriously, this pattern went together effortlessly with very little fitting. Also, I checked patternreview and Valerie's Review gave me a heads up on the cutting length issue.  I started off with my usual tissue fit, then used my rtw vest to compare measurements, and basically any tinkering that I did from that point was with the front & back side panels making the fitting process painless. I also added an 1-1/4" inch to the pattern piece lengths.

I did partial fusible interfacing for the front & upper back.

Fully lined and hand stitch the bottom close.


Initially, for the closure I was going with the suggested zipper, but only realized after basting the zipper in that the whole idea of the zipper tape showing was not going to work.  Referred to my rtw off-center jackets and noticed that not one of them showed the whole zipper tape.
 So another closure was needed and after some helpful suggestions, opted for buttons.  I think I spent more time worrying over the buttonholes than making the entire ensemble.  Seriously.

After completing the vest, I came across J. Kaori Sews' on how to enclose an exposed zipper tape and will definitely try it out on the next one.




With the buttonholes completed, I was finally able to breath again...lol
For the matching skirt I used Mccalls 6654:  Semi-fitted/loose-fitting skirts with elasticized waist and narrow hem.  Mainly used this pattern... well why else, it was handy...lol.  However, this pattern calls for knit fabric and since I was using a woven, I added 1" to the front and back, and also added a side zipper.  To take up some of the excess ease I added front and back darts and created a waistband as well and fully lined.  I wanted to peg the skirt a wee more, but knew in doing so would have be doing the twee step.. a/k/a no walking ease, so that was not going to happen.




For the top, I wanted something with a warmth factor and used a thin fleece knit from Fulton fabric. The pattern I paired with it is Mccalls 6796:Close-fitting pullover over tops with collar variation and narrow hem.


Thinking the buttonhole fiasco was a big deal...  Can I tell you, M6796 took me from zero to hunnit real quick.  The neckline was a pita, as well as the collar.  Then had to rip out serger stitches b/c I ended up with a pinch at the neckline


To add to the issues, I wasn't really feeling the turtleneck with the vest.  Stepped away from it and returned with a new agenda.. cut that dayumm collar off, scooped a little out of the neckline  and all was right with the world again.




End result, a fabulously different ensemble in my wardrobe and love it.



Until then,
Have a Fabulous Week.







2/09/2015

Butterick 5954 & Butterick 6065 V.2


I am still in a tunic state of mind and with New York's biting cold temps, tunics are playing major ball in my casual Friday wardrobe. My latest make is a tunic using two patterns (Butterick 5954 & Butterick 6065) that I morphed last summer.  

Butterick 5954: Close fitting & flared pullover tunic with front variations, shaped hemline.  Versions C and D has a collar.


Butterick 6065: Misses jacket, top, dress, skirt & pants.  Fitted pullover top is close fitting through bust.  Versions A, B & C wrong side shows on shaped hemline.

For V.2  I used a teal waffle textured fleece knit with one-way stretch.  It has a tight textured knit on one side and brushed fleece on the other side.  I'd purchased several cuts at Fulton Fabrics last year and used a few cuts to make robes for gift giving and really like the plushness of the fabric, ease of sewing and that there wasn't a fusillade of fuzz balls while handling.



Although the fabric has one-way stretch, I played it safe and added 1/4" to front & back pattern pieces. However, ended up removing give or take 1/4" from the back center seam.  All the seams were serged and stitched down the seam allowances.



For the neckline, I basted the overlapping fronts, folded to the wrong side and final stitched. As for the shaped hemline, I made lil cuts at the curvature and used steam-a-seam to anchor down the fold and final stitched.  The sleeve hems were just folded to the inside and final stitched as well. Although the fabric is plush, its not super bulky, but will say the seams were a tad bulky.  To solve that, after final stitching the neckline, hemline & sleeves, with a press cloth I ironed, then placed my clapper and it worked.



It worked perfectly for the hemline & sleeve hems, as for the neckline ...mmm... not so perfect.  The back neckline suffered gaposis and guessing I was a lil too dayummm happy with ironing down the bulky seam.




...I was able to remedy the problem with Debbie's Awesome Gaposis Fix. Threaded my needle with elastic thread and snaked the thread starting at one shoulder seam and continuing on to the next shoulder seam, adjusted as needed, tied off the ends, and I was in the land of sewing paradise.... lol



The fabric is so comfy, provided warmth and insulation in that I didn't have to layer up when I wore it.  Paired it with express double knit skinny pants, boots, threw on my coat, donned a scarf & hat and I was ready for ole' man winter.
Until then,

Everyone Have a Great Week.





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