10/29/2009

McCalls 5978 Cardigan Take II w/ Issues

I really liked the McCalls 5978 cardigan pattern and decided another one was in order with a lil twist. For the second one I wanted shirring in the back of the jacket and since I'd never done it before, spent a good amount of time reading various how to's on the internet, long discussions with my buddy Andrea on how to proceed, and finally practice shirring pieces.

I used a lightweight nubby woven fleck rust fabric (wow that's a mouthful) from Walmart @ $1.50/yd. Which I think is a wool blend, I machine washed the fabric and laid flat to dry. It yield very little wrinkling, but is scratchy on bare skin, so a lining was definitely in order.


For the shirring part... I shirred 2 pieces of fabric in different widths to determine what width would work best to allow shirring and proper fit. The first attempt was I had added 10" to the whole back and began shirring right below the armpit, well the upper back was totally warp and the bottom of the armhole was wonky. The 2nd attempt, I added just 2" to the whole back and it was too small. Finally the 3rd time around I added 2"to the yoke back and 5" from the underarm to the bottom and measured 7" from the underarm to begin shirring. I did 4 rows of shirring and then attached the front L/R and it fits ok and proceeded with attaching the front facings.
Now that the facings are in place I began working on the lining. I used the pattern pieces adding 2" to the whole back piece then cutting the back, Left front & Right front, seamed the L/R front to the back and attached the lining to facings of the jacket, turned to right side.
However, the issue I am having is get the lining to align along the shoulder where the facing ends and the neckline. I have a lot of puckering going on. I begin sewing the lining at the bottom of the left facing and continuing along the neckline and on to the right facing, but again when I get to the top of the facings the puckering begins. When I tried the jacket on with the lining in place, there is pulling where I baste stitched the lining to the facing.

The last time I bagged a lining was last Spring... What am I doing wrong....uggh

14 comments:

Cas... said...

I have no suggestions for you. But I applaud your efforts to make it work. Keep it going and you will do well!

I like the fabric a lot! Wal Mart has some super fabric deals if you look.

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Looking at the picture you are doing an awesome job changing the style of this cardigan!
Not sure if this could be the issue, or if I see the right picture, but if there is puckering that would mean there is too much fabric. After you added the width to the fabric and shirred your fabric, did the finished shirred pieces end up measuring the size of the pattern pieces you are making. If so then no width should have been added to the lining....I may be way off but that's what came to mind when I was reading :)

gold said...

Girl you have been doing some awesome sewing! It looks good to me. Don't you just love it when you find some nice fabric from Walmart!

Gail said...

I'm not an expert take my advice with a grain salt, but have you tried using ease as for sleeve heads? Lovely fabric BTW

Tanya said...

The back looks great, love the fabric. I wish I had some helpful advice but I'm experiencing a "Duh moment" and can't come up with anything. I'm sure you'll figure it out.

Sheila said...

Thanks Ladies

@ Ann - I believe your analysis is right in that once I shirred the fabric - I measured the back and its close to the orignal measurements and didn't need the add'l inches on the lining back. Thanks again.

However, after the shindig of fussing with the lining some more - I caved in and decided to do w/o the lining.

@ Gail - you gave me food for thought when you mentioned sleeve heads. I realized I had to find a way to hide the shoulder pads since I'd opted out of the lining - with the fashion fabric I used the shoulder pads as a template to cut the fashion fabric and presto! Had shoulder pads encased in the same fabric as the jacket and they will not be noticeable when putting on & taking of the jacket. So tonight I will sew them in and try to finish the jacket.

~ Kimberlee B ~ said...

Looks very comfy and nice fall color.

del said...

I love the color. And you're doing a fantastic job because I would've been lost a loooong time ago, lol!

Two Cables and a Frapp said...

Okay, I'm going to email you my address so you can send this one to me ASAP !

Opal said...

Nice cardigan... love the color and the shirring in the back...

lYNDA said...

Your jacket looks great!!!Love the color...Great pattern changes too...love the shirring...

HeathersSphere said...

Sleek and chic cardigan, Sheila! It does not look like you had issues. You know how to make it work!

Angelia said...

The shirring in the back is lovely... love the fabric... I find the best stuff at walmart, looks like you do too! I look forward to seeing how you get this all worked out

Anonymous said...

Love the color. It'll work with a lot of things. I'm partial to a tweed look.

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