2/6/10

Redo of New Look 6270

New Look 6270: Misses Dress, Jacket and Bag



When I go to Walmart I always leave the store with a pattern.  I can never go in that store for what I intended, which is to get my load of Gatorade and Gatorade only, noooo I evitably end up in the fabric section so-call browsing and end up plucking up a pattern.  I think I have most of the patterns from there, but noticed NL 6270 and thought the jacket pattern would make a quick garment.   My plan this year is to make my own suits instead of caving into Ann Taylor & the Loft and figured starting with simple jackets and mastering inputting a lining would get me on the right track.

Initially I'd paired the pattern with a 6 wale olive corduroy fabric, which I scored at Joann's, but unaware of the way of the fabric, I inadvertently cut out the back with the nap running the wrong way.  Therefore the front of the jacket was a shade darker than the back and didn't know how to go about working it in as a designer element.  I decided to use it as a muslin to make another one. 
 
I used a lightweight black denim that has a cross-wise stretch for Version E, which is basically a relaxed style collarless jacket with bust darts.  In continuing to work with the muslin I was able to tweak the jacket, because I found that the jacket was too boxy.  I nipped in the back of each side of the center back seam, creating darts, also did front darts which ascend up into the bust darts for more shaping.

 
  I tried my hand at doing a lining, which always causes me grief.  I perused my reference book, Thread's Jacket, Coats & Suits, as well as Palmer Pletsch's DvD/Jackets for Real People to aid me during this difficult time..lol and was able to do a lining, but with a lil fudging.  My lining issues arises when attaching the lining to the facings and sewing along the hem line of a jacket.  The lining ends up pulling along the bottom as if there is a battle going on between the jacket hem and lining hem. 


So I figured since the jacket didn't have any facings, the lining would be easier to put in.  Basically folded the edges of the jacket atop the lining and stitched... it worked better.  Now it was time to tackle the hem part of the jacket and lining and took a moment to inspect my rtw jackets.  Found a suit jacket from the Loft and an Anne Klein Jacket where the lining was not attached to the hem of the jacket, but rather tacks were used at each seam to hold down the lining.  After inspecting those jackets, I serged the my jacket edges and did my version of a blind hem and for the lining I encased the edges in bias trim, stitched and used tacks along the seams to hold down the lining.



Sewing the sleeve lining hems to the jacket's sleeve hems was painless, folded hem to desired length and  hand stitched lining to sleeves.



The jacket has an unusually wide neckline which is more open and closer to the shoulders.  I pinched out the shoulder seams to reduce the wide neckline, but its still hugging my shoulders, but not a nuisance.  However, it makes it a challenge to find anything to wear under it.  I really need to take a closer look in my closet for a top with a jewel neckline to see if that would work well under it, but for now I will be sporting it with a turtleneck.

I had enough fabric left over to make a skirt and hope to finish that this weekend.


Leaving you with pics of my latest crochet projects - kid buckle hat & Scarf set....
and adult version with a shawl


Keep on stitching :)

21 comments:

Aminat said...

Your jacket is lovely... I usually bag my lining and it has been working so well for me, am not sure I can do any other version...lol.. You are right about walmart, I buy fabric everytime I go there, and it's the best place to buy bemberg lining at a very ridiculous price.I love those hats too... Beautiful

alethia said...

I have been working on a simple new look jacket since last month. I had the same problem, the jacket was boxy. Anyway your jacket looks great. None of the Walmart in my area sell fabrics. I shop for fabrics in the Walmarts near my job.

Dana said...

Great looking outfit!
I used to have the same problem with the hem/facing/lining part of a jacket. I checked out one of the Palmer/Pletsch tailoring books (sorry, I can't remember the name) and it shows very clearly how sew this by machine and the results are wonderful. I think there's also a tutorial on Sigrid's blog that shows how to do this.

NuJoi said...

I really like it. You did a great job.

Faye Lewis said...

So sorry about the nap mishap. Surly you know I've done that before - on a dress. What about I wore it anyway. Love your new jacket - you are a jacket girl.

Victoria said...

Very nice jacket! I like the denim you used. Does it have a shiny surface or is that shine a result of the flash. You did a great job on your lining:)--I'll be doing the same on my next project. Have fun embarking on the adventure of making your own suits. You always have lovely work so I know whatever you do will be stunning (wink)!

Jackie said...

Your jacket turned out beautiful. You did a great job on the lining. I have that pattern and never used it, LOL! I do the same thing when I go in Walmart. The stores I go to around here stopped selling patterns though. But still have fabric. The crochet pieces are lovely. Love the colors!

Tanya said...

The jacket looks great, love the crochet hats, scarf and shawl. I have been trying to make a shawl since you posted the pattern but I'm having issues, I'm sure they're user related lol.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Sheila - the jacket is lovely and wonderful for your first effort with a lining. Can I recommend a book to you on linings? Connie Long's Easy Guide to Sewing Linings is an absolutely fantastic book on lining ANYTHING! I think someone said that you can download a copy of it from the Threads site for a nominal charge.

I think its a much better book than the other two you referenced.

Mary Sarah said...

Great jacket! I like how you turned it from a boxy jacket to a more fitted jacket. I've never lined anything that didn't have a pattern for lining. Way to go! I love the scarf and hat too!

NGLaLALa said...

Very nice, jacket! Love the crocheted items, too!

Opal said...

Nice job on the jacket....Love the hat and scarf also....

Two Cables and a Frapp said...

OMgosh you have done this pattern well! Your jacket is beautiful and I love the color and material. I can't speak on linings too much. Now that I think about it I made items that didn't call for linings. -- I love your crochet projects. Please keep me informed when you decide to sell some of those items. My daughter has been bugging me about a crocheted hat but I'm just not feeling the hook right now.

Angelia said...

Wow! I can't wait to see your jacket/skirt oufit all finished.. bet it'll be hot!
Love your crochet projects,, esp, the hot pink!

Andrea said...

First off, you know I'm loving the hat and scarf sets. They are to die for. Now, on to the jacket. GO GIRL!!!! It looks great. I can't wait to see it with the matching skirt. AWESOME!!!!!

Sheila said...

Thanks Everyone for the lovely compliments.

@ Victoria: The fabric has a slight sheen, but not too shiny. I think the camera's flash enhanced it.

@ Dana: Thanks for the tutorial on Sigrid's Blog.

@ Carolyn: Thanks and will definitely check out Connie's book.

sewingmama said...

Shelia,
You are always so classy in the outfits that you make. I love the interchangeable clothing(jacket, pants, and skirt). This seems to allow for a better wardrobe. I have been off from work since last friday and I have not sewn one thing:). You make me want to cut out a pattern right now and it is after midnight here.

Kelroc said...

Great job on your jacket and skirt. And I am just like you, I can't help but to go to the fabric section at Walmart and I have many times ended up buy a New Look pattern.

Adrienne said...

Your jacket is beautiful!

Cennetta said...

Love, love the crocheted sets. Could you share the pattern for the hat please?

Cathy said...

A beautiful lining job. I've done several of them, and they do get easier as you go. I like your choice of fabrics also.