2/20/10

Ripping of Butterick 5147 Sheath Dress

was the best thing I could've done especially after re-reading all of the helpful suggestions.  Before I could get started I had to get my body and mind right, so I had a light meal and took a long nap.  Popped up at 3:00am and took one last look at the dress and then proceeded to rip out the stitches.  I had to pull out my trusty snake light, despite having several lights on to help me see the stitches.  Ripping out black stitches on a dark garment wreaks havoc on my eyes.

 It was painful in the beginning, but like a workout, once you get a good pace going it becomes tolerable.  However when it came to the lining, I just cut along the stitch line because I couldn't wrap my mind around sitting there with my seam ripper and ripping out stitches in the lining. 


After undoing the seams, I realized that I couldn't recall ever lining a dress, lining a skirt... yes, haphazardly lining a jacket... yes, but not a dress.  I pulled out my recently purchased book that Carolyn had recommended - Connie Long's Easy Guide to Sewing Linings.... Thanks Carolyn.

Connie's guide chronicles & illustrates how to insert linings for various garments.  I focused on the instructions for constructing and inserting a dress lining, using the classic or quick method.  With the quick method the lining is cut like the dress and the facings are stitched on top of the lining.    Wherein the classic methods calls for the garment pattern being adjusted to create the lining pattern and the lining is attached to the interfaced facings w/ a conventional seam.

 I had to do things a lil different from Connie's instructions, in that my dress did not have facings.  I proceeded with matching the lining neckline to the dress neckline and pinned, then machine stitched the lining to the dress neckline turned to rightside and then stitched again 5/8" down from the first stitching line.  Again I referred to Connie's guide where she instructs to stop 1-1/4" from the back edge where I'd installed my zipper, which was very helpful because I 've had issues when I've done linings for my skirts.  In the past I would machine stitch to the zipper and the lining edge would end up catching in the abyss of the throat plate leaving it with crunchy marks and unaligned.



By stopping 1-1/4" from the back zipper, I was able to handstitch the remainder without ending up with crunchy marks & the lining looking off kilter.  I also handstitched the lining to each side of the zipper, which I will continue to do in the future.  Again in the past I've had issues when lining a skirt whenever I machine stitched the lining along the sides of the zipper - the lining edges would catch in the throat plate. 


Another great tip I used from Connie's guide was cutting the lining layer slightly narrower than the fashion fabric near the shoulder. Following that tip allowed me to attach the lining to the dress at the armholes effortlessly.  I folded 1/8" of the lining armhole edge & 1/4" of the fabric armhole edge so that the folds abut each other and stitched together. 

 Although I did quite a bit of handstitching, it felt good doing it, I had better control of what I was doing and didn't have to fight with the throat plate about snatching my fabric...lol. 
What remains is hook & eye, tacking down the back split, hemming the lining, the dress hem and a good pressing, which I will leave for later, I have been up since 3:00am and off to take a much needed nap.

Again, Thanks everyone for your help and I feel soooo much better after ripping out those stitches.

16 comments:

Victoria said...

Your Sheath dress is looking lovely and you managed to solve the lining issue rather quickly (thanks for sharing the details of that). I love the fabric and can't wait to see you in it:)

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

Getting up at 3...that is pure dedication :)) and WOW you did some pretty awesome work....it looks perfect...and you know you feel so much better knowing it is done perfectly.

Dei said...

Who knew sewing could involve so much blood, sweat and tears. What agony to rip the seams out at 3:00am. But look how much you gained. Looking good.

alethia said...

Is great to know that I am not the only one who gets up in the wee hours of the morning to get some sewing done. The dress looks great!

Faye Lewis said...

That is going to be a marvelous dress.

eword10 said...

looks fantastic! Can't wait to see it on.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

It's looking so good! Once you've got this one finished...quickly pick another piece of fabric and make it again! That way you will strengthen the lessons you've learned and end up with two great new dresses!

And Marji has encouraged me to always handstitch the lining down to the zipper tape so I'm passing those words onto you now!

Sheila said...

Thank You! - you all are fabulous with your lovely compliments, encouragement and wealth of info.

The dress fits like a charm and the handstitching made a world of difference.

@ Ann, sewing in the wee morning is so enjoyable - its one of the things I look forward to when the weekend rolls around.


@ Carolyn, its ironic - I am actually sifting through fabric to make another one before moving on to the jacket and skirt I cut from the same fabric.

Linda said...

This will be a nice looking dress.

Lori said...

Fantastic job on the dress, it looks so incredible. Wow, up since 3 a.m., impressive. So, how do you feel about the dress and the unsewing? I imagine terrific.

Lina said...

Good job! I can understand your dedication. :)

Opal said...

Good Job!.. I like this method of putting in a sheath dress lining... and I love the fabric...

Handmade said...

Very inspiring! Good Girl!

NGLaLALa said...

Very lovely indeed! Thanks for the tips on the lining! Hope you had a much needed nap/sleep after that!

Carol said...

I really like this dress. I'm always nervous about sewing checks for dresses like this because I think I will mess it up. You'll get so much wear from this, I can see it with so many colours.

jae said...

you are a very neat seamstress...and what a smart sheath.