ETA: In response to Nadia's email requesting a pic of the coat closed...
McCalls 6657: Unlined & lined jacket and coat . Jacket/coat is loose fitting with long sleeves; Version A, lined jacket with detachable lined collar, button & elastic loop, belt and side pockets. Version B, lined long coat with extended collar, belt and side pockets. Version C: jacket with standard collar, side pockets and optional toggle closures. Version D, hooded with longer hem line in back, patch pockets with optional flap & optional toggle closure.
This project started as a muslin for a plaid coat I'd plan on making. However, I quickly detoured realizing the pattern was the perfect blank slate to add some urban flair. I cut version C and used Version D length shortening it above longer back hemline. I purchased the fabric, a black/grey tweed from sav-a-thon (upholstery bin) some time ago during one of their $1.00/yd no-cut sale, which yield 5-1/2 yds.
I used fusible woven interfacing for all the pieces and incorporated welt pockets which I was sure was going to be a no drama issue. Made several practice welt pockets and was confident that the real ones would be perfect ummm nope, I like to call them smiling pockets. I was inspired by this coat with its vertical strips and incorporated it into my coat, did I know exactly how this was going to play out... of course not, but like the embellishment and went with it.
This version does not call for a lining, but included it using the coat pattern pieces, flannel back satin, turquoise piping and coordinating embroidery.
Machine stitched the lining at the neckline and hand stitched the remainder.
The collar on this coat was huge, I let it sit for a day to figure out how best to tweak it. Went back the next day, laid the fabric pieces onto the collar pattern piece and positioned it 3/4" down from the pattern edge and cut.
I have a decent collection of coats (whispering... 23 to be exact) and knew that this latest addition needed to standout among the others. Again, I was inspired by another coat with a dip-dyed detail and ordered several packets of Poly idye from Dharma. Let me tell you....dyeing polyester is not easy, this coat was dip dyed 3 times to get it dark. As the saying goes, the third time's a charm.
A co-worker had asked how the coat was coming along and told her for the most part is was nearly done, except for buttons. I showed her the coat and she suggested that I go with snaps, stating that black buttons would be a distraction. I went with heavy gunmetal silver sew-on snaps that I'd purchased from Star Snaps NYC.
After dip-dyeing the third time, I decided not to dispose of the dye water. Poor coat has been washed so many times, and lucky that it didn't turn into a toddler's coat... thankful for Oh' faithful polyester. The coat was air dried and the next day revisiting the dye water and a sponge brush in hand, whisked dye along the waist line. It didn't get as dark as I would've liked, but it's there.
This coat makes for the perfection addition to my lil collection. With Fall and Winter being my favorite seasons, I enjoy wearing a different coat every other day. However, October temps are hoovering in the high 60s and hitting 72+ around midday, making me a lil testy. Two days last week, the weather was just right for a denim jacket and then the temps perked up and I resorted to suits and cardigans.
Over the years, I've become a lil particular about which coats are worn with certain garments. I have coats for various temps, coats just for dresses and skirts, coats for pant suits, coats for just tops & pants, for special occasions and of course, the weekend coats. This coat has not been earmarked for certain garments. I tried it on with slacks and like it and also like it with the dress... but time will tell once cooler temps set in.
Hopefully in another week or so, the temps will regulate and I can begin the joy of wearing coats.
Until then.... Have a Great Week.